HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT GOLD IN JEWELRY?
What is 24K gold? What types of gold are used in Jewelry?
In this article, we explain in a simple and clear way the different types of gold you can find in jewelry. From pure gold to the trendy gold vermeil.
Even since ancient Egypt, gold has been considered one of the most valuable metals in existence. Today, its value is still highly recognized, and precisely because of its high value and scarcity, different alloys have been created in the world of jewelry, first to provide hardness and then to reduce cost. Do you know them all?
PURE GOLD
First, we must start by talking about pure gold, also known as 24-karat gold. In every gold alloy, there are 24 units referred to as "karats." When the gold we are buying has 24 karats, it means it is unadulterated gold, that is, 100% pure.
Pure Gold = 24K = 1000 parts per thousand
It is important to distinguish between the carats of gold, which indicate purity and are represented with a K, and the carats of precious stones, which indicate the weight of the stone and are represented with "ct", for example, a one ct diamond.
We must not confuse these two concepts.
As a general rule, the value of gold is proportional to its purity; the purer it is, the higher its value. Therefore, pure gold is the most valuable of all.
BUT! Not always the purest gold is the best; depending on the use we want to give it, it may be preferable to use gold with some alloy to achieve greater hardness and resistance.
Did you know that in jewelry, pure gold is not usually used?
It is common to think of gold as one of the hardest metals that exist, but in reality, pure gold is very soft and can be shaped even with your fingers. For this reason, in jewelry, an alloy of this metal is used with others that provide the hardness and resistance that we all know.
ALLOYS
|
CARATS |
% OF GOLD |
MILLIONTHS |
LAW |
|
24k Gold |
100% |
1,000 mm |
|
|
18k Gold |
75% |
750 mm |
1st Law |
|
14k Gold |
58.5% |
585 mm |
2nd Law |
|
9k Gold |
37.5% |
373 mm |
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18 KARAT GOLD
Commonly known as 18K gold (750) or First Law gold. It is the standard in high jewelry worldwide; in this alloy, the minimum percentage of other metals necessary is used to provide sufficient hardness. It is composed of 75% gold and 25% other metals, with silver, zinc, copper, nickel, and palladium being the most common, depending on the color we want to achieve, which we will see later.
18K gold jewelry has a stamped or laser-engraved seal with the number 750, representing 750 parts per thousand of gold and 250 of other metals.
Until a few years ago, it was practically the only one used in Spain, either 18k gold was used or pieces plated in gold were directly offered, but it was uncommon to find gold of lower purity. With globalization and the entry of brands from other countries, it is increasingly common to see pieces made of 14K gold or even 9K.
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14 KARAT GOLD
14K gold (585) or Second Law gold. It is very common in the United States and is composed of 58.5% gold and 41.5% other metals. It is stamped with the 585 mark, representing the 585 thousandths of gold.
It is very important that when comparing prices, you pay attention to the type of gold. As you can see, a 14K gold piece has 16.5% gold compared to an 18K piece of the same weight. The difference is quite noticeable, and it is even more so when we compare it to the next and last most common alloy.
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9 KARAT GOLD
9K gold (375). It is quite common in the United Kingdom and Australia and is composed of 37.5% gold and 62.5% other metals. It is stamped with the 375 hallmark representing the 375 thousandths of gold.
As you may have noticed, although it is commonly accepted to refer to 9K gold as "gold," only a little over one third of the jewelry is gold, while the rest, more than 60% of the total, consists of other metals.
14k and 9k gold alloys, in addition to containing a lower percentage of gold, generally have a less intense color and shine.
What is white gold and rose gold? The colors of Gold.
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YELLOW GOLD
Yellow gold alloys are composed of a mixture of pure gold with silver and copper, usually in equal parts. This allows the alloy to maintain the golden color of gold; if the percentage of silver is increased, the color will be slightly lighter, and if the percentage of copper is increased, it will be a bit more pinkish.
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WHITE AND PINK GOLD
The alloys of white and rose gold are similar to those of yellow gold; the difference lies in the metals with which pure gold is mixed.
The rose gold It is created by combining gold with silver and copper, but with a higher percentage of copper, thus contributing to that pink tone. The more the proportion of copper increases, the more pink the color becomes, reaching what is known as "red gold" when only gold and copper are combined.
The white gold is the one that generates the most controversy and headaches for jewelers, for a simple reason.
Gold is not white.
To achieve white gold, gold is alloyed with white metals such as nickel, palladium, platinum, or magnesium. This alloy gives it a pale silver appearance similar to that of silver, but it always has a slight yellowish tint, since, in the case of 18K jewelry, 75% is gold. To address this, white gold jewelry is plated with a metal called Rhodium, which is even more valuable than gold. This metal gives it that shiny silver color that is so appealing.
What happens is that the Rhodium layer wears off over time, revealing the yellowish color of the gold underneath.
The time it takes to appear depends a lot on the type of jewelry, the usage, and the pH of each person's skin. Earrings, for example, as they have little contact with the skin, usually last many years, but rings tend to lose color more quickly.
The problem is very easy to solve; it is enough to re-rod the jewel, but it is something to keep in mind before making the purchase.
GOLD LAYERS
In jewelry, numerous plating and gold bath techniques are also used to achieve a gold appearance at a more affordable price.
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GOLD PLATED
Gold plating is applied over metals such as silver, bronze, or copper. The layers of gold that are applied make the jewelry look like gold when in reality it has a thin layer.
Gold plating is measured in microns, and the more microns the jewelry has, the more durable the gold plating will be.
Plating is an electromagnetic or chemical process where heat and pressure cause layers of gold alloy to adhere to metals, although they are generally not applied directly to the base metal, but rather to an intermediate metal to enhance its durability and improve its color.
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GOLD BATHS
Gold plating has fewer microns than gold coating, which makes it thinner and therefore lasts less time. Gold-plated jewelry requires more care to maintain its characteristics.
In gold baths, the base metal can be any, with the most common being brass, copper, and silver.
Lately, many jewelry brands are applying a strategy that we at Secret and You consider "not very honest." Instead of specifying the metal that the product is actually made of, they simply mention the gold plating, as it sounds much better to say that your jewelry is gold-plated than to say that your products are made of brass or steel with a coating. It is also worth noting that pieces made of these metals are not jewelry, but rather costume jewelry, as jewelry is made with noble metals like gold or silver. Sterling silver pieces, whether gold-plated or not, have a much higher value than brass pieces.
We believe it is necessary to specify the type of main metal and not just the 0.05% gold plating.
At Secret and You, you will always see all the product features reflected. It is important to specify the type of metal as its value and quality will not be the same, even if both are gold-plated.
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WHAT IS VERMEIL GOLD?
We dedicate this particular section to Vermeil gold, due to its increasing importance lately, as a result of the rising price of gold.
For a piece of jewelry to be considered Vermeil gold, it must meet two conditions: the base metal must be Sterling Silver and it must be coated with a layer of gold of more than 2.5 microns. It is sometimes also known as Vermeil Silver.
The gold layer in Vermeil plating is thicker and more durable than regular gold plating; only jewelry known as "gold filled" has a higher gold content.
It is important to note that the base metal of Vermeil Gold is Sterling Silver, which already has intrinsic value. Although it may not be as high as gold, it is a valuable metal, and the layer of gold is far superior to a normal plating, which is why the price is usually significantly higher than that of a piece of jewelry with standard plating.
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GOLD PLATED
Gold-filled is made up of thin sheets of gold alloys bonded to a brass core. The method is similar to gold plating, but its gold content is much lower. This technique is mainly used in watchmaking.
WHAT IS STERLING SILVER?
Just like gold, silver is a relatively soft material, so in jewelry it is often alloyed with other metals to provide hardness.
Pure silver is 999.99 thousandths. Unlike gold, silver requires a much lower percentage of other metals, which is why Sterling Silver has 925 thousandths of silver and 75 of other metals.
The Sterling Silver jewelry comes with the 925 or 925S hallmark stamped. The S refers to Sterling Silver, which is the same as Ley silver.
The sterling silver jewelry is usually coated with a layer of Rhodium, which adds shine and prevents the silver from tarnishing for a longer time.
If you see a piece of dark silver jewelry or one with spots, remember that this is not rust; sterling silver is a noble metal and does not oxidize. What happens is that particles deposit on the silver and cause it to darken, but it can be cleaned and will look like new.
Discover our designs in Sterling Silver
Now that you know all the metals you can find in jewelry, you can choose the one that best suits what you are looking for. If you want a piece of jewelry to wear frequently for many years, opt for gold alloys instead of plating, as they will not wear out. If, on the other hand, you are looking for something more affordable for a specific occasion, you can choose vermeil gold jewelry or gold-plated pieces.
Discover all the options we have available in Secret & You.
